![]() ![]() In addition to the obvious safety concerns that accompany burning - fires, sudden failure of important components while in motion that sort of thing, you should also be concerned about what you can't smell! Without knowing precisely what is being burnt it's impossible to say whether what is being burned away is something the car needs to function or not. how far is it to drive it to a place of repair? Because driving it around any further than that isn't safe, in fact it isn't really safe to do that particularly if you're already smelling burning. That said, removing the turbo really takes this entire repair up another notch (or 5) so its understandable to want to skip it unless absolutely necessary.Depends. Double nut and other methods will be available. Removing the manifold (turbo) will give a lot better access for stud removal. If you don't cut the manifold flat again, it will just continue to break your fasteners. But in reality, if you have broken studs, the manifold should probably be resurfaced. That would be a nice, relatively quick fix to get some new hardware in there. Whoever is doing the welding will still have to be pretty awesome. I think loosing the motor mounts, perhaps removing the airbox, and generally getting the engine as far away from the firewall as possible may allow enough access. This method worked great for outside the car, but I did not try it in the car. The issue being access for welding the nut on to begin with. The heat from the welding will help greatly in loosening the stud in the head, and the nut gives you a lot better grip for winding it out. If the hardware is rusty, the nut cannot back out and the stud will just continue to get heat cycled and stretched until it snapsįor a stud that is broken, but still showing some threads past the manifold, I think the best option would be to weld a nut on the end and then wind the stud out. If the hardware is rust-free, the fastener is now loose and the nut can back out further If the gasket is the early/original type, reduced clamping force can cause gasket damage and blowout The studs get stretched, causing one or more outcomes: Especially the ones nearest the turbocharger. The manifold is simply too long and tends to warp, putting extreme pressure on the outer studs. They used slightly conical washers to allow for some expansion while reducing stress on the studs They put slices in the manifold to allow expansion and help prevent warping Volvo decided to make it one piece and did their best to mitigate issues. But that would create a packaging issue with turbocharger fitment. For a 5-cylinder with cast iron manifold, it should be 2 separate pieces. The main issue is the manifold is just too long to be one piece (and remain reliable). (The top empty hole is for the heat shield bolt.) You can see the studs that are broken off flush and the one that still has a nut on it. I know I have to replace the broken studs at some point but re-tightening the nuts is so easy I'll keep doing it for a while. It's been about 8-9 months since I installed the new nuts and washers and it is still squeal free. Eventually the squealing only went away for a few weeks at a time so I bought new nuts and washers from the dealer. (Don't tighten these too much - VIDA calls for 24 Nm.) This stopped the squealing for about six months at which point I re-tightened them and got another several months squeal free. I tightened these and checked the other nuts but they were all tight. The nut on that stud and the nut on the outer most stud were loose enough to turn with my fingers. I found two studs on the passenger side were broken off flush with the head and another still had threads showing and a nut but had also broken. I had the same problem starting about two years ago. ![]()
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